Nestled in the heart of Mato Grosso do Sul (aptly nicknamed Southern Thick Bushes), Bonito lives up to its name, offering a breathtaking array of activities. From diving deep into mystical caves and floating through crystal-clear rivers teeming with colorful fish to hiking rugged cliffs, every moment here feels like an adventure from a nature documentary.
But as stunning as it is, Bonito comes with a unique twist—exploring it doesn’t come cheap.
“Bonito means beautiful—but don’t forget, it’s also expensive!” my receptionist quipped as I departed Foz do Iguaçu. The truth hit me as soon as I arrived. Unlike many backpacker-friendly destinations, Bonito runs on a tightly regulated tourism model. Every activity is part of a pre-arranged package, meticulously organized to protect its delicate ecosystems from overtourism.
While this might frustrate budget-conscious travelers, it’s for the greater good. The system ensures sustainability, preserving Bonito’s pristine charm for future generations.
Planning Your Adventures
Here’s the good news: aside from peak seasons, you don’t need to book weeks in advance. Most tours can be arranged on the same day through local accommodations or travel agencies. Every hotel or guesthouse is well-equipped to assist with bookings and provide detailed guidance on activities.
However, transportation isn’t part of the package deal. Many attractions are scattered across the region, and getting to them can be an adventure in itself. Muddy roads, tropical wetlands, and remote locations mean you’ll need to arrange additional transport—often as pricey as the activity itself! To save on costs, consider renting a car and splitting it with fellow travelers. Alternatively, bring your own vehicle for more flexibility.
Bonito’s Unique Charm
Despite the challenges, Bonito makes up for it with well-planned amenities. Most attractions offer clean restrooms, parking, souvenir shops, and even restaurants. But don’t rely on your phone! Once you leave town, network coverage is spotty at best, adding to the feeling of being truly off the grid.
Whether you’re gliding through glassy waters brimming with fish, spotting wildlife in lush wetlands, or exploring caves that seem to belong in a fantasy novel, Bonito is a place that rewards every real traveler with unforgettable memories.
Pro Tips for Travelers
- Pack for Mud: Many roads leading to attractions can be tricky, especially in the rainy season.
- Split Costs: Rent a car and team up with others to make transportation more affordable.
- Stay Organized: Let your accommodation handle tour bookings for you—every place has the latest info and connections.
- Enjoy the Disconnect: Embrace the lack of signal—it’s your chance to reconnect with nature.
Bonito isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience that strikes the perfect balance between adventure, conservation, and natural wonder. While the price tag might make you think twice, the memories you’ll make here are worth every cent.
So, pack your sense of wonder (and your wallet) and get ready to explore Brazil’s most beautiful corner!
How to Reach Bonito, Brazil
By Air
- Bonito Airport (BYO):
Bonito has a small domestic airport with limited flights, making it a convenient but potentially pricier option. Check flight schedules in advance, as services may not operate daily. - Campo Grande Airport (CGR):
The capital of Mato Grosso do Sul, Campo Grande, is 300 km from Bonito and serves as the primary gateway. With more flight options and better connectivity, it’s the preferred choice for many travelers.
By Bus
- From Campo Grande:
Direct buses to Bonito are available and take around 5-6 hours. Tickets cost approximately 106 BRL. The bus ride is comfortable and offers a scenic view of the countryside. - From Corumbá:
If you’re coming from the Bolivian border, you can take a direct bus from Corumbá. The journey costs about 145 BRL and is a great option for overland travelers.
By Car
For flexibility and convenience, renting a car is a popular choice. The drive from Campo Grande to Bonito takes roughly 4 hours and is straightforward, though some roads near Bonito can be muddy and challenging, especially during the rainy season.
With limited time and budget, I chose to visit two attractions in Bonito. Sucuri river snorkel and Gruta Do Lago Azul caves.
Sucuri River Snorkel Tour
The Sucuri River Snorkel Tour was an unforgettable highlight. This tour isn’t just an activity; it’s a mesmerizing dive into a world so surreal, where the reality far outshines the Instagram photos. The Sucuri River, known as the clearest river in the world, feels like stepping into an underwater aquarium garden. The crystal-clear blue waters stretch for miles, teeming with vibrant flora and fauna. It’s so magical you might think you’ve been transported into the world of Avatar 2!
The adventure begins with a short boat ride, where small groups are taken 1.5 kilometers upriver. Equipped with a warm wetsuit and life jacket, you’ll gently float back down to the starting point with the river’s natural current.
With a snorkel in place, all you need to do is dip your face into the water and marvel at the stunning underwater world. Schools of fish glide by, plants sway gently in the current, and if you’re lucky, you might spot some extraordinary wildlife. I was thrilled to see a small crocodile near our boat, and with a bit of extra luck, you could even encounter an anaconda!
Logistics and Tips
- Location: Sucuri River is 20 km from Bonito. The drive takes time, especially with the muddy roads.
- Duration: The snorkeling tour itself lasts about 45 minutes.
- Wildlife Bonus: After the tour, relax in the hammocks on-site. Brazilian capuchin monkeys, curious coatis, and elegant cranes are common visitors to the property. Keep some insect repellent handy for your downtime.
- Cost: R$314, including transport.
If you’re reliant on arranged transport, you might have to wait until later in the day to return to town. But honestly, the wait is delightful. With a restaurant on the property and plenty of wildlife to watch, time passes quickly and pleasantly.
Gruta do Lago Azul
Among the many gems Bonito offers, the Gruta do Lago Azul (Blue Lake Cave) stands out as a surreal spectacle of nature. This underground cave with its vividly blue lake is nothing short of enchanting—a must-visit for anyone exploring the region. At first glance, the cave might seem unassuming. From the top, the lake appears dark and dull, almost ordinary. But as you descend the steep staircase, the transformation is astonishing. The water begins to glow with a striking blue hue, the sunlight revealing its true, vivid beauty.
I visited on a clear, sunny day when the sunlight streaming into the cave amplified the lake’s brilliance. On cloudy days, I imagine the view might be less vibrant but still intriguing.
Looking at the lake from below can play tricks on your mind. The crystal-clear water makes the lake appear shallow, but don’t be fooled! In reality, it plunges to depths of up to 96 meters in certain areas, making it as mysterious as it is mesmerizing.
The Journey into the Cave
- Guided Walk: The cave is about 500 meters from the reception area. Along the way, knowledgeable guides share fascinating geological and historical insights about the region, adding context to your adventure.
- Descent: Be prepared for a bit of a climb. The staircase down into the cave is steep, so sturdy footwear is a must.
Logistics and Costs
- Location: Gruta do Lago Azul is 20 km from Bonito’s city center.
- Price: Entry, including transport, costs R$180.
- Tour Duration: Plan for at least a couple of hours, including the walk, descent, and time spent admiring the lake.
Notes From Dreams 